Bouldering at Ramshaw Rocks

 First time in a while thanks to the fact that both myself and Alex both managed to complete NICAS levels one and two in between lockdowns, also my daughter Madeline bagged her NICAS level one in the interim.

Anyway, since the bastards have hit us with their idea of what would be ideal lockdown conditions ongoing: nothing indoors and fun permitted, impossible to meet others to congregate, but all the boring stuff goes on, thought we'd resurrect the bouldering mat.

The idea was to clock The Very Far Skyline at the Roaches again, but given that the two smallest were in tow, we decided to see what Ramshaw was all about. Not much for the beginner, indeed, I bagged nothing, but at least we got the lie of the land! Next time I'll come with a jumper that I don't mind ruining, and nail Practice Chimney (VB)

Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering

Easy Prow (V0+) - Alex

Baby Groove (VB) - Alex

 

 

 

 

Alex about to send it on Easy Prow (V0+)

 

 

 

 

 

Alex gets into the Baby Groove (VB)

He did it!

Bouldering at The Roaches: Upper Tier

 I was hoping this weekend to spend a couple of days bouldering on the east side of the Peak District - Do the Three Ships at Birchen Edge on the first day and go for a bit of a walk to keep the family sweet, then onto Burbage South Valley for Alex and I and Burbage South Edge for the Kindergarten for the two youngest. However, I watched the weather forecast change so the bad weather that ended last Wednesday crept daily into the weekend, ruining my plans. We did, however, manage a quick session up the Upper Tier of The Roaches, which was very busy!

I didn't do too well, again! I was able to easily get onto the ledge to do Upright (VB) but couldn't send it. Then Alex did it and I saw what to do. Irony is, I then found it impossible to get onto the ledge to start, having done it easily the first time (which Alex wasn't able to do!). Ah well. The Bishop's Move (V0-) provided a similar problem to me as Flake Arete (V0) on The Big Block in the Lower Tier - swing one leg pretty much parallel to my waist and bring my entire body up but with nowhere decent to put my right hand to make it happen! Alex did it, I didn't!

The Rippler

Left Arete (V0) - Both

Little Boulder

Upright (VB) - Alex

The Nose

Nose Mantel (VB) - Both

Joe's Boulder

The Bishop's Move (V0-) - Alex 

Alex about to send it on Upright (VB)

Alex doing likewise on The Bishop's Move (V0-)

Bonus ascent of Douglas Boulder at Rockhall Cottage

Bouldering at The Roaches: The Cube

Heeding the call of The Cube. Alex and I dragged the two youngest out on a fair slog just to attempt a few routes. Peak Bouldering claims there's a faint track up to The Cube. Maybe when it was published, but... what a trek, especially for the kids! And I don't just mean it's supposed thirty minute approach time. You see faint fragments of path that come and go but it's not easy terrain to cross and it didn't feel very ethical. Near the end coming back I ended up finally soaking my feet in hidden bogs. Eventually my daughter only crossed when I used the bouldering mat as a moving floor! Nothing crushed on The Cube but a small win for Alex. I didn't get anything.

First of all, up Cube Crack (V0-), Alex made it to the break but didn't feel confident sending it. I don't blame him! I did explain that the mat was there but the rock does flare out a bit. I wasn't really feeling up to much today. For me that fact that I spent the first half of the day working on the brick wall outside my house and the second half taking my children where they wanted to go was enough.

The Triangular Slab looks small in Peak Bouldering and the video of Cedric Monzali sending The Cube (V4) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXX6k6G0ELA). This is because it is set in the ground a lot lower. We first started up 2K (VB) but because the rock isn't climbed so much there's some organisms on it that flake off, causing a fall at any time. At first I thought Alex was wussing out big time until I stepped on it! Alex managed K2 (VB) up the other side though. I got onto it okay but when I clocked the same stuff as on the other side, I decided to give it a miss...

Triangular Slab

K2 (VB) - Alex

Up K2 (VB) nice and slow

Mission accomplished!

Bouldering at Newstones

Thought we'd try here out. Although I bagged five out of nine green problems I attempted, I was disappointed with myself. Alex managed seven, including the two highballs on Hazel Barn, whose apparently simplicity attracted me in the first place. Nutmeg, we didn't see. We also met some nice people, including a very helpful man who's lurcher ate my son's sandwich! We had the two youngest here what with it being the holidays, they had fun. Maddie tried some of the graded climbs we did but to no avail. She probably would have been good on Top Block, but Alex and I smashed the three VB routes on that whilst they were chillin elsewhere.

I thought Hazel Barrow Crack and Hazel Barn, both being VB routes, would be easy despite the fact that they were 8m high legitimate roped climbing routes, albeit not so difficult ones. However what I came to realise about myself was that I needed to get used to the idea of actually falling onto a bouldering mat. Halfway up Hazel Barn I couldn't find any decent handholds at all, and Alex got stuck on the ledge of Hazel Barrow Crack the first time, solved it the second time, but I didn't relish the prospect of being stuck on the ledge so bailed soon-ish. Given the ridiculous size of the mat I've bought, I may as well get used to jumping onto the mat.

I put a fair bit of effort into Tiny Crack (V0) and Prehistoric Offwidth (V0) on the Stegosaurus... couldn't make it but at least I tried to some degree. I can always come back later... my daughter managed Prehistoric Offwidth but from a standing start rather than sitting (she couldn't reach). Being able to get your legs inside the crack helps! Still, some great performances from my two youngest. My four year old William was proud to show me his ascent of a crack within Rhynose Buttress with just socks! A great day out.

Newstones

Twin Aretes - Left Twin Arete (VB), Right Twin Arete (V0) - Both

Top Block - Easy Slab (VB), Easy Crack (VB), Easy Slab Right-hand (VB) - Both

Hazel Barn - Hazel Barrow Crack (VB), Hazel Barn (VB) - Alex

We went over to Rhynose Buttress and Sly Buttress to attempt a couple of problems. Alex wasted no time getting up this 10m or so behemoth, from the left side, which I couldn't figure... the absolute madman! (William approached from the back!)

Easy ascent up Left Twin Arete (VB)

Just about to send it on Hazel Barn (VB). Hazel Barrow Crack (VB) is immediately to the left. The shelf I talked about is to the far left, just below where his feet are in this picture. As you can see, it's slightly higher from this point, and requires a big push at the end.

First time I saw him do the ascent I showed at the start, whilst scoping out Sly Buttress... from his position I can tell he's the brains of the operation...

Bouldering at The Roaches: Piece of Mind Boulders

Not the most stellar of seshes today, only three graded problems bagged out of a total of seven attempted.

We started at Sail Slab, home of three supposed VB problems. We managed to get Sail Arete first. Once I figured out how to get onto the ledge, we were away with Mantel and Pocket. Sail Slab was impossible for us to even get on the slab. One of those occasions where our diminutive stature did not help.

Alex up Mantel and Pocket (VB)... my crappy camera angle does a great job of showing the high mantle we had to conquer but not how high the angled slab is.

We then went to Wildy's Arete, only managed Jobby (V0-) up the right hand side. We couldn't figure out Slab and Crack (V0-), the upper handholds didn't seem high enough to manage getting over the overhang. On the back, Micky (VB) had a nasty drop onto a boulder that neither of us fancied. Before we went we had a shot of Potty (V0) but, once again, a few more inches would have made it easy. Maybe a more dynamic approach might help next time...

Alex up Jobby (V0-). Slab and Crack (V0-) is to the far left.

Piece of Mind Boulders - Both

Sail Slab - Mantel and Pocket (VB), Sail Arete (VB)
Wildy's Arete - Jobby (V0-)

Bouldering at The Roaches: The Very Far Skyline

Since the youngest two's shoes turned up, we thought we'd make a day of it and go from Roaches End to do some of the Skyline green circuit. That was two days ago... we never even made it to any graded bouldering problems... the two youngest wanted to climb every rock on the way! Since I have to have the kids for the majority of the summer holidays, we had to go out at some point this week, couldn't let Alex miss out... forecast for tomorrow is rain so today's as good as any. Windy but worth it! Took half an hour to walk up from Roaches End. Only had an hour and a half to play with so only managed to get to grips with The Very Far Skyline... we ended up sharing the area with three lads from Coventry who were camping in Matlock for three days, doing some bouldering in different areas of the Peak District each day.

There were only two green routes we didn't make - Harry Patch (V0) and Pinkies to Perkies (V0)... they feature in the pictures so you will find out why! This area has different problems compared to Spring Boulders and Lower Tier.

The Very Far Skyline

Rounded Arete (VB), Crack (VB), Slab Crack (VB), Slab Walk (VB), Wall and Rib (V0-), Left Crack (V0-), Right Crack (V0-), Easy Ramp (VB) - Both of us

Alex takes it easy up Left Crack (V0-). Right Crack (V0-) is to the right, unsurprisingly!

Peak Bouldering says this wide traditional Crack (VB) takes no prisoners and it's not kidding! For a beginner it introduces the concepts of getting up fairly high at a weird angle.

Alex does it. It's pretty easy from this position to climb up the back but still exciting. If he went diagonally left now onto the overhang he'd be doing Harry's Patch (V0) but we both wussed out on that one today. If you look at the fine crack down the recessed rock to the right, that's Pinkies to Perkies (V0). We tried... the face was smooth-ish but a fall would only involve sliding down the grit. I found out that my crack jamming skills left a lot to be desired... hopefully next time on both counts.

Bouldering at The Roaches: Lower Tier

Thought we'd bag a few problems on a rare rain-free day. Good old July!

Pine Tree Slab didn't represent much of an issue. Then we went over to the Big Block where some lads had been earlier. Alex managed to solve Flake Arete (V0), and in the process bagged his first problem which has the "heart with wings" symbol (highball problem/bad landing). I struggled with a move midway up it so I am yet to solve that one. Nice short and sweet sesh, though.

Lower Tier

Pine Tree Slab: Pine Crack (VB), Up Chips (VB), Pine Arete (V0), Pine Arete Right (V0) - We both did them all

Big Block: Flake Arete (V0) - Alex

Alex up Up Chips (VB)

Alex tackles Flake Arete (V0) on Big Block

He made it!

Bouldering at The Roaches: Spring Boulders

Today seems to be the only day this week that it's likely that The Roaches will get no rain, so we decided on another trip out. This time, we kept it exclusively at Spring Boulders. Most of the green/green circuit problems have been ticked off now, and I managed to bag my first orange problem - a V0+, to boot!

There was only one other climber who was working on a hard boulder a little further away, so we had free run of everything.

Notable ascents for me were:

Runnel Arete which we both struggled with last time before Alex realised today that it's easier to start on the left side and swap to the right than to keep trying to struggle up the left side with no apparent holds for the left side of the body!

Bog Slab, which was my first V0 (Alex's was Left Slab which he did last time), achieved by the technique Alex did to conquer it - just run up it as fast and hard as you can. My right hand found a little pebble sticking up that did actually help!

Gentle Slab on the Gentle Slab Boulder was achieved by running up it again! Peak Bouldering says to "smear up the right-hand side of the slab" and I later found that "smearing" is a technique where you place your whole foot on the rock to gain a foothold where there isn't any. We tried again but couldn't finesse it. Hey, an ascent is an ascent, if I brute forced it, I count it as a send!

Wavy Slab on the Gentle Slab Boulder: apparently "smear" on this too but I managed to get my hands into a high horizontal groove and pulled myself up to the apex from there. My first orange problem, though it's also on the green circuit. Alex struggled with this one but he'd already sliced his hand open again by this point. Hopefully next time... and hopefully I can bag Left Slab on Blister Slab next too, to even things out...

Spring Boulders

Bog Boulder: Bog Arete Left (VB) - Both, Bog Slab (V0) - Both, Runnel Arete (VB) - Both

Little Boulder: Blunt Arete (V0) - Both

Gentle Slab Boulder: Gentle Slab (V0-) - Both, Wavy Slab (V0+) - Me

Alex up Bog Arete Left (VB)

Alex having ran straight up Bog Slab (V0)

Look at all this beautiful food!

I don't want Facebook to be about everything I cook either, so here's some things I've made in the last few weeks...

Spiced lentil, nut and vegetable roast, ready for the oven

Nawabi Kheema Pilau

Mixed vegetable curry. Veggie dishes rarely fill me so I made a Tarka Dhal to go with it.

Just a quick stir fry with a packet sauce

Kheema Shahzada

Kedgeree, an old favourite

As is this Feta, Spinach and Lemon Rolled Lamb, ready for the slow cooker..

Bouldering at The Roaches: Spring Boulders and Lower Tier

Well, the original idea of this blog was to talk about two things:

1) The problems in the world that exist today (basically, that the world is run by a devil worshipping sex cult that wants to murder the majority of us, that has been manipulating and lying to us for years)
2) The way forward for humanity, solving those problems and moving forward together to a brighter future (and unlike everybody else, I know the way forward, for sure...)

I feel I can talk about these things with authority due to a groudbreaking religious/spiritual experience I had about five years ago, where for six days I actually lived as a human being was originally supposed to, giving me a concrete understanding of the true nature of reality.

However, over the last five years I've come to realise that the best reception that I can expect from anybody, whether a conspiracy theorist, spiritual, religious, or none of the above, is apathy at best, ridicule at worst. It's no big deal though. It's not fair for me to expect people to grasp such abstract concepts and unprecedented events. I'm meeting more likeminded people these days who are on my wavelength to some degree, so that's cool.

Furthermore, I am very busy, and I have so much I could write and so many notes that it's hard to know where to start... and I'll get to where I'm going no matter whether I write about such subjects here or not.

So, I'm gonna use this blog to also log my bouldering adventures, and the stuff I cook, because I'd rather not stick it on Facebook.

Anyway, my son is a fairly experienced indoor climber. I personally have only done one indoor session. We both did a day outdoor climbing and bouldering the other day so decided it was something worth getting into, since the pricks who run the world have proven that they can shut down anything they want under any false pretence at any time. Having already acquired a chalk bag and shoes, we just needed a bouldering mat, which came today.

Just a quick session up The Roaches, this is what we bagged (routes from the book Peak Bouldering)

Lower Tier Boulders

Blister Slab: Left Slab (V0) - Alex, Slab 2 (VB) - Both, Block and Crack (VB) - Both

Spring Boulders

Little Summit: Summit Arete (V0-) - Both - and my first V0-!

Little Boulder: Slabby Seam (VB) - Both

Bog Boulder: Poxy (VB) - Both

Since managing to get to the top of White Rastafarian is a V3 climb I doubt I'll ever get any good but it's fun and a decent enough workout!

Alex conquering Left Slab on Blister Slab

Peak Bouldering helps to de-mystify things