Bouldering at Newstones

Thought we'd try here out. Although I bagged five out of nine green problems I attempted, I was disappointed with myself. Alex managed seven, including the two highballs on Hazel Barn, whose apparently simplicity attracted me in the first place. Nutmeg, we didn't see. We also met some nice people, including a very helpful man who's lurcher ate my son's sandwich! We had the two youngest here what with it being the holidays, they had fun. Maddie tried some of the graded climbs we did but to no avail. She probably would have been good on Top Block, but Alex and I smashed the three VB routes on that whilst they were chillin elsewhere.

I thought Hazel Barrow Crack and Hazel Barn, both being VB routes, would be easy despite the fact that they were 8m high legitimate roped climbing routes, albeit not so difficult ones. However what I came to realise about myself was that I needed to get used to the idea of actually falling onto a bouldering mat. Halfway up Hazel Barn I couldn't find any decent handholds at all, and Alex got stuck on the ledge of Hazel Barrow Crack the first time, solved it the second time, but I didn't relish the prospect of being stuck on the ledge so bailed soon-ish. Given the ridiculous size of the mat I've bought, I may as well get used to jumping onto the mat.

I put a fair bit of effort into Tiny Crack (V0) and Prehistoric Offwidth (V0) on the Stegosaurus... couldn't make it but at least I tried to some degree. I can always come back later... my daughter managed Prehistoric Offwidth but from a standing start rather than sitting (she couldn't reach). Being able to get your legs inside the crack helps! Still, some great performances from my two youngest. My four year old William was proud to show me his ascent of a crack within Rhynose Buttress with just socks! A great day out.

Newstones

Twin Aretes - Left Twin Arete (VB), Right Twin Arete (V0) - Both
Top Block - Easy Slab (VB), Easy Crack (VB), Easy Slab Right-hand (VB) - Both
Hazel Barn - Hazel Barrow Crack (VB), Hazel Barn (VB) - Alex


We went over to Rhynose Buttress and Sly Buttress to attempt a couple of problems. Alex wasted no time getting up this 10m or so behemoth, from the left side, which I couldn't figure... the absolute madman! (William approached from the back!)

Easy ascent up Left Twin Arete (VB)

Just about to send it on Hazel Barn (VB). Hazel Barrow Crack (VB) is immediately to the left. The shelf I talked about is to the far left, just below where his feet are in this picture. As you can see, it's slightly higher from this point, and requires a big push at the end.

First time I saw him do the ascent I showed at the start, whilst scoping out Sly Buttress... from his position I can tell he's the brains of the operation...




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