Bouldering at The Roaches: The Cube

Heeding the call of The Cube. Alex and I dragged the two youngest out on a fair slog just to attempt a few routes. Peak Bouldering claims there's a faint track up to The Cube. Maybe when it was published, but... what a trek, especially for the kids! And I don't just mean it's supposed thirty minute approach time. You see faint fragments of path that come and go but it's not easy terrain to cross and it didn't feel very ethical. Near the end coming back I ended up finally soaking my feet in hidden bogs. Eventually my daughter only crossed when I used the bouldering mat as a moving floor! Nothing crushed on The Cube but a small win for Alex. I didn't get anything.

First of all, up Cube Crack (V0-), Alex made it to the break but didn't feel confident sending it. I don't blame him! I did explain that the mat was there but the rock does flare out a bit. I wasn't really feeling up to much today. For me that fact that I spent the first half of the day working on the brick wall outside my house and the second half taking my children where they wanted to go was enough.

The Triangular Slab looks small in Peak Bouldering and the video of Cedric Monzali sending The Cube (V4) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXX6k6G0ELA). This is because it is set in the ground a lot lower. We first started up 2K (VB) but because the rock isn't climbed so much there's some organisms on it that flake off, causing a fall at any time. At first I thought Alex was wussing out big time until I stepped on it! Alex managed K2 (VB) up the other side though. I got onto it okay but when I clocked the same stuff as on the other side, I decided to give it a miss...

Triangular Slab

K2 (VB) - Alex

Up K2 (VB) nice and slow

Mission accomplished!

Bouldering at Newstones

Thought we'd try here out. Although I bagged five out of nine green problems I attempted, I was disappointed with myself. Alex managed seven, including the two highballs on Hazel Barn, whose apparently simplicity attracted me in the first place. Nutmeg, we didn't see. We also met some nice people, including a very helpful man who's lurcher ate my son's sandwich! We had the two youngest here what with it being the holidays, they had fun. Maddie tried some of the graded climbs we did but to no avail. She probably would have been good on Top Block, but Alex and I smashed the three VB routes on that whilst they were chillin elsewhere.

I thought Hazel Barrow Crack and Hazel Barn, both being VB routes, would be easy despite the fact that they were 8m high legitimate roped climbing routes, albeit not so difficult ones. However what I came to realise about myself was that I needed to get used to the idea of actually falling onto a bouldering mat. Halfway up Hazel Barn I couldn't find any decent handholds at all, and Alex got stuck on the ledge of Hazel Barrow Crack the first time, solved it the second time, but I didn't relish the prospect of being stuck on the ledge so bailed soon-ish. Given the ridiculous size of the mat I've bought, I may as well get used to jumping onto the mat.

I put a fair bit of effort into Tiny Crack (V0) and Prehistoric Offwidth (V0) on the Stegosaurus... couldn't make it but at least I tried to some degree. I can always come back later... my daughter managed Prehistoric Offwidth but from a standing start rather than sitting (she couldn't reach). Being able to get your legs inside the crack helps! Still, some great performances from my two youngest. My four year old William was proud to show me his ascent of a crack within Rhynose Buttress with just socks! A great day out.

Newstones

Twin Aretes - Left Twin Arete (VB), Right Twin Arete (V0) - Both

Top Block - Easy Slab (VB), Easy Crack (VB), Easy Slab Right-hand (VB) - Both

Hazel Barn - Hazel Barrow Crack (VB), Hazel Barn (VB) - Alex

We went over to Rhynose Buttress and Sly Buttress to attempt a couple of problems. Alex wasted no time getting up this 10m or so behemoth, from the left side, which I couldn't figure... the absolute madman! (William approached from the back!)

Easy ascent up Left Twin Arete (VB)

Just about to send it on Hazel Barn (VB). Hazel Barrow Crack (VB) is immediately to the left. The shelf I talked about is to the far left, just below where his feet are in this picture. As you can see, it's slightly higher from this point, and requires a big push at the end.

First time I saw him do the ascent I showed at the start, whilst scoping out Sly Buttress... from his position I can tell he's the brains of the operation...

Bouldering at The Roaches: Piece of Mind Boulders

Not the most stellar of seshes today, only three graded problems bagged out of a total of seven attempted.

We started at Sail Slab, home of three supposed VB problems. We managed to get Sail Arete first. Once I figured out how to get onto the ledge, we were away with Mantel and Pocket. Sail Slab was impossible for us to even get on the slab. One of those occasions where our diminutive stature did not help.

Alex up Mantel and Pocket (VB)... my crappy camera angle does a great job of showing the high mantle we had to conquer but not how high the angled slab is.

We then went to Wildy's Arete, only managed Jobby (V0-) up the right hand side. We couldn't figure out Slab and Crack (V0-), the upper handholds didn't seem high enough to manage getting over the overhang. On the back, Micky (VB) had a nasty drop onto a boulder that neither of us fancied. Before we went we had a shot of Potty (V0) but, once again, a few more inches would have made it easy. Maybe a more dynamic approach might help next time...

Alex up Jobby (V0-). Slab and Crack (V0-) is to the far left.

Piece of Mind Boulders - Both

Sail Slab - Mantel and Pocket (VB), Sail Arete (VB)
Wildy's Arete - Jobby (V0-)

Bouldering at The Roaches: The Very Far Skyline

Since the youngest two's shoes turned up, we thought we'd make a day of it and go from Roaches End to do some of the Skyline green circuit. That was two days ago... we never even made it to any graded bouldering problems... the two youngest wanted to climb every rock on the way! Since I have to have the kids for the majority of the summer holidays, we had to go out at some point this week, couldn't let Alex miss out... forecast for tomorrow is rain so today's as good as any. Windy but worth it! Took half an hour to walk up from Roaches End. Only had an hour and a half to play with so only managed to get to grips with The Very Far Skyline... we ended up sharing the area with three lads from Coventry who were camping in Matlock for three days, doing some bouldering in different areas of the Peak District each day.

There were only two green routes we didn't make - Harry Patch (V0) and Pinkies to Perkies (V0)... they feature in the pictures so you will find out why! This area has different problems compared to Spring Boulders and Lower Tier.

The Very Far Skyline

Rounded Arete (VB), Crack (VB), Slab Crack (VB), Slab Walk (VB), Wall and Rib (V0-), Left Crack (V0-), Right Crack (V0-), Easy Ramp (VB) - Both of us

Alex takes it easy up Left Crack (V0-). Right Crack (V0-) is to the right, unsurprisingly!

Peak Bouldering says this wide traditional Crack (VB) takes no prisoners and it's not kidding! For a beginner it introduces the concepts of getting up fairly high at a weird angle.

Alex does it. It's pretty easy from this position to climb up the back but still exciting. If he went diagonally left now onto the overhang he'd be doing Harry's Patch (V0) but we both wussed out on that one today. If you look at the fine crack down the recessed rock to the right, that's Pinkies to Perkies (V0). We tried... the face was smooth-ish but a fall would only involve sliding down the grit. I found out that my crack jamming skills left a lot to be desired... hopefully next time on both counts.

Bouldering at The Roaches: Lower Tier

Thought we'd bag a few problems on a rare rain-free day. Good old July!

Pine Tree Slab didn't represent much of an issue. Then we went over to the Big Block where some lads had been earlier. Alex managed to solve Flake Arete (V0), and in the process bagged his first problem which has the "heart with wings" symbol (highball problem/bad landing). I struggled with a move midway up it so I am yet to solve that one. Nice short and sweet sesh, though.

Lower Tier

Pine Tree Slab: Pine Crack (VB), Up Chips (VB), Pine Arete (V0), Pine Arete Right (V0) - We both did them all

Big Block: Flake Arete (V0) - Alex

Alex up Up Chips (VB)

Alex tackles Flake Arete (V0) on Big Block

He made it!